Turtles and trees in Costa Rica

Raleigh Expedition - Costa Rica
I have adapted this post from an e-mail I wrote to friends and family whilst on my environmental phase in July 2011. I hope you enjoy reading about my experience!

Working in La Cangreja ('the crab') National Park was a real treat. Looking up through the sky high trees in the rainforest was really something. They looked as if they were touching the clouds as the rays of sunshine crept through. It was so quiet and as it isn't a tourist hotspot since it is quite out of the way, it was lovely wandering through with no one in sight. The rangers worked closely with us to clear the trails running through the Park and ensure that they don't get waterlogged. It was hard work digging trenches and I'm pretty sure I never want to see a rake again but it was all really worthwhile. Originally the plan had been to build a wheelchair accessible path through the Park but unfortunately the planning permission fell through at the last minute so we had to adjust our project. This is very common over here, things change from one day to the next...even more so in Nicaragua. You just have to go with it! I spent my spare time getting stung on my back by a scorpion in the middle of the night and not being able to find it- only to wake up again when I felt something crawling on my arm; and waking up in the middle of the night swaying backwards and forwards as a little earthquake decided to strike. Apparently Costa Rica gets so many earthquakes but most of them are so small that no one ever feels them....well, I did! We were lucky to get some fresh fruit and vegetables from the rangers in the jungle so we had a few really scrummy dinners. I've never eaten so much watermelon in my life! On our last evening they cooked us dinner and we ate it at the ranger station whilst watching the stars.       
        

Arriving at Playa Hermosa ('beautiful beach') was spectacular. It really was paradise and for a second I forgot we were here to work rather than go on holiday! The black sand and driftwood made the beach look so rugged and wild. I really loved it, it was so different to other places I've been. During the day we helped out with the upkeep of the area for the rangers and during the night we went on patrols in search of turtle eggs and poachers. I was lucky enough to see 6 Oliver Ridley turtles during my time at the beach. I'm thinking of taking up midwifery after I delivered over 90 eggs for one turtle! I held out my hands and as she lay the eggs they dropped into my hands. It really was the most incredible experience being so close to nature. We were also lucky enough to release three baby turtles into the ocean. They were so tiny and very cute! The rangers were keen to teach us how to spot turtle tracks and the differences between the different species of turtles. The last time a leather back turtle was seen there was in 1999. It is endangered and the numbers have been falling for a long time. On one of the night patrols at about 2am we came across a stranded dolphin on the beach. It was injured so there was little we could do but we poured water on it and tried to make it a little more comfortable by getting it to drink some water. Watching nature take its course was very upsetting and I had no idea that dolphins cry! We carried it into the ocean
with the ranger but I'm not sure it was the best idea because it tried to come back in. We built a jungle camp at the beach and slept in 'basher beds' which are beds made of bamboo tripods and fabric. They are the most comfortable thing in the world, that is when they don't leak in torrential rain. One night I came back after a patrol at about 3am to find my sleeping bag swimming in a puddle of water. As you can imagine that night wasn't up there with some of the best sleeps I've had!

A note about deforestation

60% of deforestation in Costa Rica is due to cattle farming. The Western world's obsession with beef and the likes of McDonald's and Burger King are key players in this. I recently found out that McDonald's has attempted to negotiate a deal with the Co-operative in Achuapa in Nicaragua I previously wrote about. It wants to purchase its sesame seeds from the Co-operative to use on its burger buns. It is likely to be very controversial considering the environmental damage it is causing. 

Our ingenious way of knowing who's in the loo!

Watching the sun set on Playa Hermosa